Varanasi, also called Kashi, is home to the Kashi Vishwanath Jyotirlinga and the ghats on the Ganga. It is one of the oldest living cities and central to Hindu rites of passage.
Varanasi, also called Kashi, is the one Indian city where the whole of Hindu life and death happens in public, along the same two kilometres of river. Weddings, morning prayers, cremations, music lessons and silk weaving all share the same lanes. That is why first-time visitors find it overwhelming, and why people who give it three days usually fall in love with it.
The simple way to understand the city is to see it as three layers. The river and its ghats are the soul of it. The temples in the old lanes, with Kashi Vishwanath at the centre, are the heart. And the neighbouring Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first teaching, is the quiet pause just outside.
This guide is written for a family coming for the first time. It tells you what to see, in what order, and where people usually lose time and money.
Route and layout at a glance
Almost everything is within a few kilometres of the river. The old city around Vishwanath Gali, Dashashwamedh and Godowlia is walkable but very crowded, and vehicles cannot enter the narrow lanes. The ghats run along the western bank in a long curve from Assi in the south to Raj Ghat in the north.
Most visitors stay near Godowlia, Dashashwamedh or Assi. Sarnath, the BHU campus and Ramnagar are outside the old city and need a taxi or auto.
Plan your Varanasi trip by days
How many days do you have? Pick one and the plan changes.
1 day in Varanasi
For a short stop from Prayagraj, Ayodhya or Gaya. You will see the essentials, but it will be a full day.
Day 1
Sunrise. Boat ride from Assi Ghat to Dashashwamedh.
Morning. Kashi Vishwanath darshan, then Annapurna.
Afternoon. Lunch, rest and a short visit to Sankat Mochan.
Evening. Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh from the steps or a boat.
2 days in Varanasi
The best balance. It gives you the river, the temples and Sarnath.
Day 1: The river and the temples
Sunrise. Boat ride along the ghats.
Morning. Kashi Vishwanath and Annapurna.
Afternoon. Rest. Walk through Vishwanath Gali for sarees and brass.
Evening. Dashashwamedh aarti.
Day 2: Sarnath and the south
Morning. Sarnath: Dhamek Stupa, museum and Mulagandha Kuti.
Afternoon. Sankat Mochan and Durga Kund.
Evening. Assi Ghat, dinner and a quiet walk by the river.
3 days in Varanasi
The ideal first visit, with enough time to let the city settle.
Day 1: The ghats
Sunrise. Boat ride Assi to Manikarnika.
Morning. Walk the ghats north from Dashashwamedh.
Evening. Ganga aarti.
Day 2: Temples
Early morning. Kashi Vishwanath.
Morning. Annapurna, Kal Bhairav and Vishalakshi.
Afternoon. Rest or a silk-weaving visit in the old city.
Evening. Sankat Mochan evening aarti.
Day 3: Sarnath and Assi
Morning. Sarnath.
Afternoon. Banaras Hindu University campus and the Bharat Mata or New Vishwanath temple.
Evening. Assi Ghat.
5 days in Kashi
For a deeper visit that includes Ramnagar and the quieter ghats.
Kashi Vishwanath is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas and is the centre of the city for Shaiva pilgrims. The present temple was rebuilt in the late 18th century by Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. The newer Kashi Vishwanath Corridor, opened in December 2021, now gives a wide path from the Ganga to the temple and has made the approach far less cramped than before.
Darshan is a short, intense moment in a crowd. Many families also pour Ganga water on the lingam, which is why people often fill a small pot at the ghat first. Check the temple trust's official website for current darshan options and booking before you go.
Local tip: Go early on a weekday, and leave phones, bags and large items at your stay. Rules about electronics and bags are strict and change.
Photo: Yusuke Kawasaki (CC BY 2.0), Wikimedia Commons
Dashashwamedh Ghat and the evening Ganga aarti
This is the busiest ghat and the most famous place for the evening Ganga aarti. Priests perform it in a synchronised line with lamps, bells and conch shells, and thousands watch from the steps and from boats.
The experience is different depending on where you watch from. From the steps you are part of the crowd. From a boat, the view of the whole lit-up ghat is better and you can breathe. Many visitors choose a boat for the aarti and the steps on another evening.
Local tip: Reach at least an hour before the aarti for a good place. Be careful with bags and phones in the crowd.
Sunrise boat ride
Seeing the ghats from the water at sunrise is the single best first experience of Varanasi. The boat moves slowly from Assi to Dashashwamedh or on to Manikarnika, and you see the whole river-front wake up: people bathing, offering water to the sun, doing yoga and washing clothes.
Choose a rowing boat over a motor boat if you can. It is quieter, and many boatmen are happy to share the story of each ghat.
Local tip: Fix the price and the route before you step in. Ask the boatman for the official fare chart or ask your hotel.
Assi Ghat and Subah-e-Banaras
Assi Ghat is the southern end of the ghats and has a younger, calmer feel. It is the place for the morning Ganga aarti and the Subah-e-Banaras programme of music, usually held at sunrise on most days.
It is also the best base for visitors who find the old city too crowded. There are cafes, books and quiet lanes close to the ghat.
Local tip: Combine a morning aarti here with breakfast of kachori and jalebi in the lanes behind the ghat.
Manikarnika Ghat
Manikarnika is the main cremation ghat and is considered one of the most sacred places in Kashi, where it is believed that a person who is cremated receives moksha. The fires burn day and night.
Respect is everything here. Photography is not appropriate, and you should not stand in the way of a funeral party. Watch quietly from a distance or from the river.
Local tip: Never follow someone who offers to take you "up close". It is usually a scam for a donation.
Sankat Mochan and Durga Kund
Sankat Mochan is a Hanuman temple founded in the early 20th century, associated with the saint Tulsidas, who wrote the Ramcharitmanas in Varanasi. It is a calm, well-run temple, especially on Tuesdays and Saturdays, when many devotees come.
Durga Kund Temple, nearby, is a red Shakti temple beside a sacred pond. The two together make an easy half-day outside the old lanes.
Local tip: Visit in the late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Sankat Mochan does not allow bags inside.
Kal Bhairav and Annapurna
Kal Bhairav is known as the Kotwal of Kashi, the guardian of the city. Devotees come to seek protection, and it is a tradition to visit him after Vishwanath.
The Annapurna Temple, close to Kashi Vishwanath, honours the goddess who feeds the world. Many pilgrims visit it for blessings for the family's food and household.
Local tip: Visit both in the same morning. Wear simple clothes and keep small change for offerings.
Sarnath
Sarnath is about 10 km from the city and is where the Buddha gave his first sermon. The Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of the monasteries, the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar and a small museum are the main sights.
It is quiet and green after the intensity of the ghats, and it is a good half-day trip for families with elderly or young travellers.
Local tip: Go in the late morning when the light is good and return to Varanasi for the evening aarti.
Best time to go, season by season
October to March
The best time. Cool mornings and a lighter sun. Dev Deepawali in November lights up all the ghats but is extremely crowded.
April to June
Very hot. Plan only for sunrise and evening. Carry water and a cap.
July to September
The monsoon raises the river and floods many ghats, so some walks are blocked. Boat rides may be limited.
Shravan and Maha Shivaratri
The biggest days for Kashi Vishwanath. Expect very long queues and plan a different day for the quieter temples.
How to reach and get around
By rail: Varanasi Junction and Banaras station are well connected with Delhi, Kolkata, Lucknow, Prayagraj and Mumbai. The fastest trains from Delhi take roughly 8 hours.
By air: Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport is about 25 km from the city and has direct flights from major cities.
Getting around: auto-rickshaws and e-rickshaws are the norm outside the old city. Inside the old lanes, you walk. For the last stretch to the Vishwanath temple, vehicles are not allowed.
Where to stay
Near the ghats (Godowlia, Dashashwamedh): atmospheric, convenient for aarti and temples, but loud. Near Assi: quieter, with cafes and a younger feel. Near the railway station or Cantt: easier for road travel but far from the river.
Many ghat-side guest houses and heritage haveli stays fill up before Dev Deepawali, Maha Shivaratri and winter weekends, so book early.
What to eat
Kachori sabzi and jalebi for breakfast, tamatar chaat, baati chokha, the famous Banarasi paan and lassi in a kulhad are the local specials. In winter, look for malaiyo, a light milk foam sweet found in the early morning.
Varanasi is a vegetarian city around the temples. Be careful with raw street food if you are not used to it, and drink bottled water.
Common mistakes to avoid
Hiring unofficial guides and agreeing to a "special darshan" at the gate. Use the temple trust's official booking instead.
Not agreeing the boat price before sitting down.
Visiting the old lanes with a car. It will not get through.
Treating Manikarnika as a photo spot.
Trying to do everything in one day. Leave one slow hour at a ghat.
Etiquette
Dress modestly. Remove footwear before entering temples.
Do not give money to anyone who insists on a puja or a pind daan without a clear fee agreed with an established priest.
Photography near cremation ghats is not appropriate.
Day trips from Varanasi
Sarnath: About 10 km. The Buddha's first teaching and the Dhamek Stupa.
Ramnagar Fort: Across the river. A fort with a museum and the traditional Ramlila.
Chunar Fort: About 40 km. An old fort above the Ganga.
Prayagraj and Vindhyachal: Longer trips for those with extra days.
Not sure which temples fit your family?Share your travel dates and who is coming. We will help you pick, free of charge.
Darshan timings, booking rules and road conditions change, so confirm them with the temple trust or local authority before you travel.
Questions people ask
How many days are enough for Varanasi?
Two full days cover the ghats, Kashi Vishwanath and Sarnath. Three days is comfortable for a first visit. A week suits a slow, devotional stay.
What is the best time of day to see Varanasi?
Sunrise for the boat ride and the ghats, and the evening for the Ganga aarti. Keep the afternoon for rest and shopping.
Is Varanasi safe for senior citizens?
Yes, with planning. The old lanes are uneven and crowded, so use a rickshaw to the edge of the lanes and keep a family member beside the senior.
Can I do Varanasi and Prayagraj together?
Yes. The two cities are about 120 km apart and are often combined, with a night in each.
What should I wear in Varanasi?
Modest, comfortable clothes that cover shoulders and knees, and footwear that is easy to slip off. Carry a light cloth for sun and temples.
What is Dev Deepawali?
It is the festival of lights on Kartik Purnima, when the ghats are lined with lakhs of lamps. It is beautiful and very crowded, so book early and plan for a lot of walking.
What is the best time to visit Varanasi?
October to March. Dev Deepawali in November is the most beautiful time but also the most crowded.
How many days are needed for Varanasi?
Plan 2 to 3 days.
How do I reach Varanasi?
The nearest railway station is Varanasi Junction. The nearest airport is Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport, Varanasi. Check current road and train timings before you travel.
What are the main festivals at Varanasi?
Dev Deepawali (Kartik Purnima); Maha Shivaratri; Ganga Mahotsav.
What is today's tithi and Rahu Kaal at Varanasi?
On 13 November 2026, the tithi is Shukla Chaturthi and Rahu Kaal is 10:20 AM to 11:42 AM, worked out for Varanasi's own sunrise.
Photo credits
Dashashwamedh Ghat on the Ganga in Varanasi: Sulagna Halder, CC BY-SA 4.0, source; Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi: Akshaypilot19, CC BY-SA 4.0, source; Evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat: Yusuke Kawasaki, CC BY 2.0, source.
